Breeze On

We enjoyed our visit to the Spanish Wells museum. We learned a lot about the history of the Bahamas as well as more recent history of Spanish Wells. We found the information about their successful fishing industry, catching crawfish (spiny lobsters), especially interesting. If you eat lobster in Red Lobster it most likely came from here. The crew are all equal owners of their fishing boat and share revenues and expenses equally. If someone retires he puts his share up for sale. If someone is interested in buying it the rest of the crew/owners vote on it. Jean told us a lot of the local businesses are co-owned in a similar way. I forgot to take a photo of one of the fishing boats but I fond one online. They are mostly boats that were former shrimpers.  The outriggers aren’t used for nets anymore when catching lobsters.  After the museum visit Jean and Tom gave us a ride to the Food Fair grocery store in their golf cart. Then they gave us a ride back to the dinghy. We really app...

Yesterday rained almost constantly so we stayed on the boat. I barely even stepped out of the cabin. George ventured out a few times to use the hand pump to pump the water out of the dinghy. I was really wishing we had finished making and attaching bungee cords to the awnings I made so that we could use them. We had to keep the hatches closed because of the rain and it got really warm inside.  Today looked to be a much better day so we went to Harbour Island. It is about 10 miles away and accessible by boat through the Devil’s Backbone, a narrow, winding channel through reefs. It is recommended that you have a guide to help you through but we decided to take a ferry or water taxi. We looked into the large Bahamas Ferry. It would have cost us each $50 round trip. Then we saw that we could take Pinder’s Water Taxi. We see their water taxis coming and going frequently. We stopped at Pinder’s grocery store (there is a reason these are called the “family islands”) to inquire. The cashie...

We pulled up the anchor and left Lynyard Cay at 4:40 am yesterday morning. Why so early?  We wanted to be sure we could make the 60 mile trip to Eleuthera in time to arrive during daylight. We also believed the winds were going to pick up during the day, leading to bigger waves. We were hoping to arrive before that happened. I have to say it was a little creepy for me to be driving out of North Bar Channel between the islands and reefs in the dark. We had a route in the chart plotter that I just had to trust. I also had to trust that there were no big waves coming at us through the channel. There weren’t and everything was fine. There was just a gentle 1-2 ft swell. We motored for about 1 1/2hr until there was enough light to see the sails. We have raised the sails in the dark before, using headlamps and a spot light to see what we are doing, but it is a lot easier during daylight. After the sails were set the ride became much smoother and faster. The winds were stronger than expec...

We left Hope Town yesterday just before high tide and zigzagged our way around the shoals down the Sea of Abaco. We anchored off of Lynyard Cay. It is the first time we have anchored in over two months. We were so busy getting ready for the trip that we didn’t sail much in the weeks before we left home. After we left on October 31 we have either been under way, tied up at a marina or on a mooring ball. It is nice to be anchored again.  Lynyard Cay is a lovely spot.  Just as we anchored a large  turtle seemed to be very curious about us. It was treading water about 50’ away and kept popping it’s head out of the water.  It is lovely b ut the anchorage is also a bit challenging. There is quite a bit of grass on the bottom and it is tough to get an anchor to hold in grass. We tried to find the sandiest area to drop the anchor. We thought we had a good one. George snorkeled our to check on the anchor and thought it looked good. However, after he came back he hit his foot ...

Yesterday George noticed that there was a rip in my sailing hat. He suggested that I could cover it with a patch.  I thought that was a good idea.  While we were walking around Hope Town we stopped in a gift store and spent $8.00 (gulp) on a patch. This morning I got my sewing machine out and sewed the patch on the hat. When I looked in the mirror to check the results I noticed a small dark spot near the patch. I wiped it with my finger and the spot got bigger. It was another hole! I attempted to zigzag the new hole with the sewing machine but it just kept tearing. The old hat has given up the ghost. Well, as my mother would say, it doesn’t owe me anything. I really like the wide front brim and the neck covering in the back. Oh well, I can replace it after we get home.  While I was attempting to repair my hat George was transferring diesel from a jerry can into the fuel tank. After that we dinghied over to the marina and filled the jerry can. We went into the marina store...

We were extra cautious and left Green Turtle Cay early this morning to ensure we could get through the Whale before the front came through. We headed for Hope Town, another adorable town that we visited and liked last year. As it turns out our friends Jean and Michael were headed for Green Turtle Cay and arrived there this afternoon. Darn! We knew they were on their way to the Bahamas but weren’t sure where they were going. We will have to meet up with them later on.  After picking up a mooring in Hope Town we dinghied ashore to see where we might find some Thanksgiving dinner. We saw a sign advertising Thanksgiving dinner outside Cap’n Jack’s, a restaurant on the harbor very close to our boat. We decided to come back later for an early dinner. We had tied up to the main dock in town where there are signs telling boaters to use a stern anchor. That keeps the boats perpendicular to the dock and allows for more boats to tie up. George tossed out our dinghy anchor but didn’t think it ...

We left Treasure Cay this morning and motored in light winds to Green Turtle Cay. We traveled through the infamous “Whale” without incident. There are two harbors on Green Turtle Cay, Black Sound in the south and White Sound in the north. We picked up a mooring in White Sound because it has deeper water.  We dinghied  to  shore in the early afternoon and inquired about renting a golf cart to tour the island. We weren’t sure how long to rent it because we weren’t sure how long we were staying. We talked to the dock master at the Green Turtle Club and he said a front is coming and the Whale will get nasty. That was all we needed to hear to make us decide to spend just one night here and get back through the Whale while we could. We rented the golf cart for the afternoon and took a quick tour. We first drove toward the southern end where the town of New Plymouth is located. It is a quirky, adorable town with lots of shops and restaurants. There is quite a bit of housing on G...

This morning, after the squalls had passed and the wind calmed down, we left Marsh Harbour for Treasure Cay. We had wanted to see Treasure Cay and it is on the way to Green Turtle Cay, another place we want to see. To reach Green Turtle Cay you have to exit the Sea of Abaco at Loggerhead Cut, travel a mile in the Atlantic, then re-enter the Sea of Abaco in the Whale Cay Channel. Whale Cay Channel, “The Whale,” is notoriously challenging. It can be very rough, especially after high winds. Sometimes it can form breakers all the way across, known as a “rage.”  When that happens it should be avoided altogether. Since it has been windy for a few days we decided to stop at Treasure Cay for a night and give “The Whale” a chance to calm down. We plan to leave here tomorrow morning and go through Whale Cay Channel to visit Green Turtle Cay. Treasure Cay is a resort with a numerous condos and a large marina. On the way to the marina there is a large, protected harbor with several mooring bal...

I have to admit, there were a few moments when I thought it just wasn’t worth it. Those moments passed quickly. Yesterday, as we were preparing to go for a swim in the pool, I realized I was happy to be here in the Bahamas. We have had two full nights of sleep since we arrived. We spent yesterday cleaning the thick crust of salt off of the boat. I wiped down the enclosure panels and put them away for the winter. We did laundry and put away the long underwear. George was preparing to put the dinghy together and drop it in the water until he realized there isn’t enough room between our boat and the catamaran beside us to drop the dinghy in the water. It will have to wait.  Today we walked into town and picked up a few fresh foods at the grocery store. Later we walked to a local restaurant, Colors by the Sea, for a good Bahamian lunch. We are ready to move on as soon as the wind subsides. We plan to visit Treasure Cay, Green Turtle Cay and possibly Hopetown. The timing and order depen...

We made it. Phew!  It was quite a trip. Parts of it were just fine and parts were downright uncomfortable. We arrived here at Harbour View Marina yesterday at 2:45 pm after traveling 455 nautical miles in 75 hours. The last 100 miles were among the most uncomfortable. We were sailing upwind with waves crashing over the port side of the bow. We were motor sailing because both of us really, REALLY wanted to make it to Marsh Harbour by late afternoon. We didn’t want to take the chance of spending a night killing time waiting for daylight so we could get through Man O War channel. In hindsight, we wish we had gone to West End on Grand Bahama Island instead of Marsh Harbour. It would have been a shorter, easier sail. We chose Marsh Harbour primarily because of the places we wanted to go after we cleared in. The options are much more limited from West End.  We arrived here 15 minutes after low tide. Not good. We went aground just as the bow was entering the slip. The dock master tie...

We are just over half way on our passage from Brunswick to the Bahamas. Per Chris Parker's weather routing we entered the Gulf Stream yesterday morning at about 10 am. The conditions were not as "gnarly" as last year but they weren't great. We had 7 ft waves with a 7 second period much of the five and a half hours it took us to transit the Gulf Stream. (For all you non-sailors the period is an indication of the distance between waves.) The waves were hitting us on the port bow. A few broke onto the boat and sent water over the entire length of the boat. Some of the waves would lift Breeze On up and and then let her crash down on the other side of the wave. BLAM! It was so rough that we opted to eat granola bars and nuts for our mid-day meal and put our casserole in the oven after we were through the Gulf Stream. The good news was that we crossed during daylight hours and it was short. It didn't seem short, though. George commented a few times after crashing down...

Well, we received our email from weather guru, Chris Parker. We have a window to cross the Gulf Stream and make it to the Bahamas sometime Saturday or Sunday. The conditions won’t be ideal but should be less than “gnarly”.  We are making our last minute preparations and plan to leave within the hour. I admit that I am nervous. I am not looking forward to the 5-6 foot seas, especially if they are on the beam.  Before we leave I just want to mention how much we like Brunswick and Brunswick Landing Marina. The people here are so nice and the marina is focused on providing a good experience for cruisers. The city reminds us of our home, Cambridge, MD. Once a prosperous city with a lot of natural beauty. It fell on hard times but seems to be on the upswing. Great restaurants, a nice little grocery store and a well-stocked old fashioned hardware store are an easy walk from the marina. Yesterday we walked into town to eat lunch at Indigo Coastal Shanty. The food was delicious. I imag...

We made another coastal hop from Charleston to Brunswick, GA, arriving here yesterday morning. The conditions weren’t the worst we have seen but not the best, either. It was pretty rolly the entire trip with waves hitting the port quarter.  We were both grateful for the full enclosure - it was cold with winds 15 - 20kt. George spent the morning replacing our fresh water pump while I did a load of laundry. Our pump has been acting up since last winter. When we run water through the Sea Gull water filter the pump tends to shut off after about 15 seconds. If we let the pump rest for a minute it starts working again. We were just letting it limp along but the other day it began to shut off when we ran water through the galley tap. Since this was a new devopment we decided it was time to replace the pump before it shuts down for good at a really unconvenient time. George replaced it with a spare pump we have had on board. Fortunately, Jabsco & Hanse made it very easy. George didn’t ...

We woke up this morning to temperatures of 57 inside the cabin and 52 in the cockpit. It could have been worse, it was 43 outside the enclosure. Brrrrr. We fired up our little propane heater and warmed up the cabin. Later on the sun warmed the cockpit inside the enclosure to almost 80. We wanted to retain all of that heat to help keep us warm tonight.  Yesterday morning we took the shuttle to the grocery store and picked up a few fresh foods. The casseroles I prepared and froze at home to be heated and consumed on passages thawed long ago. We have been eating them before they go bad. We picked up a few frozen entrees at the store that we hope will last until we do get the opportunity to cross over to the Bahamas. After the grocery store we rode the shuttle to downtown again. This time with our friends Jean and Michael. Jean bought a Charleston walking tour guide and we used that to explore on foot. It was a gorgeous day and we saw a lot more of this beautiful city.  When we ch...

Today was a raw, drizzly day. We decided to spend it visiting the ships and exhibits at nearby Patriots Point. We toured a submarine, Navy destroyer and an aircraft carrier. In addition, we visited an exhibit called the Vietnam Experience. It is an area set up to resemble Vietnam complete with huts, a small river, a boat, several helicopters, trucks, and a tank. The amount of information at the exhibits at Patriot Point is really overwhelming. We spent a few hours in the morning, came back to the boat for lunch, then returned for a few hours in the afternoon. We saw a lot but didn’t take the time to read everything. That would have taken days. The tours are all self-led and we were really grateful for the arrows leading the way. If it weren’t for those arrows we would still be wandering around lost in the huge aircraft carrier.  When we made the choice to stay in Charleston, and not take advantage of the last weather window on Tuesday, we knew it might be a while before we had anot...

Yesterday morning we took the free shuttle from the marina over to downtown Charleston. We started our exploration with a horse-drawn carriage ride. Although we did learn quite a few things about this historic city, we were a bit disappointed in the tour. I think our expectations were too high. After the carriage ride we walked over to Magnolia’s restaurant for lunch. The food was unique and delicious. After lunch George found a self-guided walking tour website that we used as a guide. It was an absolutely gorgeous day to walk around and see the beautiful architecture and lovely parks of Charleston. One of our last stops was Mother Immanuel Church, site of one of the recent all-too-frequent mass shootings. We weren’t able to go inside but I am glad we found this pretty church. One of the things we learned on our carriage rides is that Charleston has over 170 churches. I think if averages out to one church for every 14 residents. By late afternoon we were really tired. We found a spot t...

We do not have a good weather window for traveling to the Bahamas just yet so we are continuing to hop down the coast.  We calculated our departure time from Cape Fear with the goal of getting to Charleston at slack tide. There are swift currents in Charleston harbor and it can make pulling into a slip an even bigger challenge than usual. We had to slow down the last few hours so as not to get there before slack tide. It turned out well and we are safely tucked into our slip at Charleston Harbor Marina. We sailed, then motored, then sailed again over the 26 hours it took to make the trip.  We took on an extra crew member for a while yesterday. A little yellow bird. It looks very much like the one we had in our cockpit last spring. In fact I think we were in the same place when the bird came and sat in our cockpit. Same bird?!?  We had all of the enclosure panels up so there were only a few small places where the bird could enter. Both times it found its way in to the cock...

Our passage from Norfolk to Cape Fear was uneventful. It took 50 hours, 42 of which we were motoring due to light winds. On the plus side, rounding Cape Hatteras with light wind and relatively calm seas was a piece of cake. We were running very low on diesel fuel. George decided to add a few gallons from a jerry can when we were just 1/2 mile from the marina.  We added 40 gallons of fuel to our 40 gallon tank (a few of those gallons went into the jerry can).  We definitely can’t make it the Bahamas from here if we have to motor most of the way. So, since the winds are predicted to be light for most of the week, we will be coastal hopping. We plan to leave for Charleston tomorrow and spend few days sightseeing while waiting for a good weather window.  We are in the same spot at Bald Head Island Marina that we were in last spring. While here we showered, did a load of laundry and bought ice cream since we could. Ice cream in the Bahamas is not readily available. When we did...

We left Little Creek yesterday morning with a plan to sail to Cape Fear, NC. We decided not to press on to the Bahamas just yet. The main reason is we would have to motor most of the way and we have enough diesel fuel to motor just halfway to the Bahamas. We had to motor almost 24 hours straight. The wind picked up just after we rounded Cape Hatteras so we were able to sail for 8 hours. The wind dropped again so we are now motoring. George had noticed a tiny tear in the mainsail. He just repaired it with sail tape. We are hoping that will keep it from enlarging. All afternoon we have been hearing calls from a US Naval Warship giving coordinates and saying they are going to be firing live ordnance. They want boats to stay at least 15 miles away. It appears that the ship is located not far from where we are headed. I think we will be altering course! Speaking of the Navy, as we were leaving Little Creek yesterday morning we heard very loud noises that sounded like jet engines. They went...

We sailed all night and arrived in Norfolk, VA just after sunrise. The winds were light so we motorsailed all day. Then, just as the sun was setting, the wind picked up and we turned off the engine and sailed through the night. We were planning to arrive at around 8 am so that we could buy diesel and tie up at a marina. As the wind reached the mid-teens we were sailing over 7 knots on a beam reach. We put a reef in the main to slow us down. Even with the reefed main and no jib we  often traveled at over 6 knots. I took the first watch from 7 pm to 1 am. George took the next watch from 1 am to 7 am. Neither one of us slept very well. It was very choppy on the bay and Breeze On was slamming into the waves. A pod of dolphins greeted us as were entered Little Creek. There were 8 or 10 of them in a row swimming right toward our bow and then under the boat. Have I mentioned how much I love dolphins? We are docked at Vinings Landing in Little Creek. It is conveniently located very close t...