Breeze On

We thoroughly enjoyed the visit from our daughter and son-in-law and we miss them already. They were great sports about the wild and wet water taxi ride across the harbor as well as the windy, cloudy, rainy weather during the first two days. Fortunately, we were able to get off the boat each day. Additionally, the less-than-ideal weather was still much better than the weather they left behind in Massachusetts. We were all grateful, though, that the last two days were sunny and mild.  We enjoyed hiking, snorkeling, walks on the beach, games of Mexican Train, a few dinners out, and lots of laughs.  Brad and Pam on the beach during a respite from the squalls.  Ominous clouds remain in the background.     Brad and Pam at the top of Monument Hill after hiking the appropriately named Intrepid Trail. On the swings at Sand Dollar beach.  We took our turn.  We stayed down below as they clambered higher. 

Our daughter and son-in-law are arriving for a visit this afternoon so I won’t be posting for a few days. We are so excited that they are coming! It is windy here so we will be taking the water taxi across the harbor and back. We hope that the wind calms down enough during their visit to allow some trips to shore.  Windlass update—the new motor has been ordered and will be sent to Staniel Cay via Makers Air. We will make our way there once the motor arrives and the weather allows.  Looking N in Elizabeth Harbour before sunrise when most anchor lights are still shining. The wind was calmer then so the Harbor wasn’t too choppy. 

We have spent the past two days problem-solving the windlass issue. It was complicated by the fact that there was no access to the bolts that attach the windlass to the boat.  It can’t be taken apart without removing it, and it can’t be removed without undoing the bolts that attach it to the boat. However, there was no way to access to the bolts. Hanse apparently installed the windlass in the anchor locker—which is all one piece with the deck—prior to attaching the deck to the hull. There is a molded “ box “ in the v berth that covers the underside of the anchor locker. George cut a hole in that box—thanks to Marla and Tommy who loaned us their oscillating multitool.  Another problem is that the US distributor of the windlass, Quick USA, is in the process of moving their headquarters from MD to FL which seems to be impacting their communications. No one in technical support is returning George’s calls. The parent company is located in Italy and one person, Fabrizio, there has ...

Yesterday we decided between taking a dinghy ride through the Conception Island mangrove creek at high tide or snorkeling at slack high tide. Since the snorkeling at Conception Island was disappointing the last time we tried it, we chose the mangrove creek. We had dinghied through the mangrove creek just once before on our first trip to Conception Island, eight years ago. At that time we had a very slow dinghy and it took us quite a while to get to the entrance of the creek. Once we arrived, the waves at the entrance were rather large but we had invested so much time and effort getting there we went for it. When we left, the waves were even bigger. George gunned our tiny outboard and we took a wild, wet ride out.  Yesterday’s trip was much smoother. We saw numerous turtles, a ray, and several birds. The water was incredibly clear until about 3/4’s of the way in when it turned green and murky from algae. We assume the tides flush out the algae up to that point.  This morning we...

This morning we raised the anchor and set sail for Conception Island, 42 nautical miles away. Conception Island is a tiny uninhabited island, surrounded by the deep water of the Atlantic Ocean. The water here is incredibly clear which is why we like it. We learned—the hard way—that it is best to visit in relatively calm conditions. That includes the sea state which may be impacted by a storm hundreds of miles away. This is our first visit in four years. It is a little bouncy and rolly here but not terrible.  Yesterday we went to the Farmers’ Market in Salt Pond and bought eggs, tomatoes, greens, chives, eggplant, sopadilla fruit, and papayas. We were even treated to some free food made by the vendors for a customer appreciation day. The harbor was choppy yesterday so we stayed on the boat after returning from the Farmers’ Market. I made seed crackers and partially baked them in my solar oven. It was too windy to put the oven on the deck—the oven and crackers would have tipped over—...

We are anchored in Thompson Bay, Long Island—which is just north of the settlement of Salt Pond. There are, as you might expect, a few salt ponds in the settlement and yesterday we walked by one on our way to the beach. We were hoping to spot pink flamingos which Jeannie had told us can be seen at the salt ponds on occasion. The flamingos like to feed on the tiny shrimp that live in the salt ponds. We did not see any flamingos but we did have a lovely walk.  In the evening Jeannie and Brad picked us up—as well as Jean and Michael—and drove us to Chez Pierre for dinner. The dinner was delicious and we had so much fun. George had the catch of the day—mahi mahi—in a tarragon sauce that was wonderful. I had a very large Gorgonzola salad that was also delicious.  Today we ran the water maker and I did some laundry on board with the help of my new spinner. Later on we went ashore to pick up some more produce at Hillside Food Supply, then back again to Sou’Side for drinks.  One ...

Today we joined Jean, Michael, Brad, and Jeannie for lunch at Sou’ Side. While there we made plans to go to dinner at Chez Pierre tomorrow evening. Having the option of eating out is one of the perks of being near civilization. We are definitely taking advantage of that.  The gang at Sou’ Side.  We had company. This kitty enjoyed being petted by George’s foot.     Last night’s sunset just before we saw a great green flash. My camera isn’t capable of catching the green flash effect so I don’t even try—I just watch it and enjoy it. 

We arrived at Thompson Bay, Long Island Saturday evening just after 8:30 pm. The harbor was well-lit by the full moon so we motored right up to our anchoring spot (as opposed to anchoring way back). It helped that the anchorage was not full.  On Sunday George started the day by swabbing the deck. When the wind is very light the dew will collect on the deck in the morning. George will occasionally use a mop to swab it in order to clean off some of the salt that has accumulated from days of salt spray. Later in the morning we dinghied over to chat with old friends Jean and Michael on Desiderata II then Matt and Marty on Runaway. In the afternoon we all met at Tiny’s Hurricane Hole for lunch. It was great to catch up again.  Today was a day for chores—two dinghy trips to Long Island Petroleum for diesel, a trip to Hillside Food Supply for fresh fruits and vegetables, and a trip to drop off our garbage.  Swabbing the deck. You can see the condensation on top of the dodger ...

We have enjoyed our three weeks in the Ragged Islands but it is time to move on. This morning—about an hour before sunrise—we raised the anchor and started north. We timed our departure to coincide with high tide so that we could make it out of the shallow entrance. We decided to make the 100 mile trip to Long Island without stopping so that we could pass through the shallow Comer Channel close to high tide. The winds have been light so it is a motoring trip. We expect to arrive at Thompson Bay, Long Island sometime this evening. Fortunately, the moon will be close to full so we should have good visibility as we enter the anchorage.  Photo of us taken by Leslie Jones as we left the gathering at the beach a few nights ago.  This bird reminded us of the blue herons we see at home.  A lone mangrove sprout on the sandbar at low tide.  We weren’t the only ones walking on the sandbar. You can see the tracks of the conch as it moved from one rock in the background to the ro...

We went snorkeling a few more times—there are so many choices from this anchorage. Here are the photos.  Angelfish, Blue Tang, and a Sargent Major.  Schoolmaster Snapper.  Spiny Lobster.  Parrotfish.   Angelfish, Blue Tangs, and Parrotfish.  Grunts, Blue Tangs, and Angelfish.  Parrotfish and Sargent Major.  Sargent Major and Grunts.  Coral. 

We have settled into our usual Ragged Island routines—walking the beaches, snorkeling, gathering with others on the beach at sunset, in addition to completing chores. It is a relaxed pace that we both enjoy. The crowd in the anchorage has increased significantly. We now have twelve boats and have heard that more may be on the way. We are considering various options for leaving here—all depending on tides and wind direction and strength. Today’s best option appears to be leaving here on January 11.  The forecast changes daily so, as I have heard others say, our decision is written in the sand at low tide.  Saturday’s gathering. It was breezy and cooler than normal so people are rather bundled up.  Dinghies lined up for the evening gathering.  Small tree that is managing to survive on top of rocks and sand.  Last evening’s sunset. 

Dan, a young solo sailor in our anchorage, went out in his dinghy early this morning and, while snorkeling along a 15’ deep ledge, speared a 112 pound Goliath Grouper on the Atlantic side of the reef. It took three hours for him to finally get the giant fish to the surface and into his dinghy. Then he invited everyone in the anchorage to come to shore as he cut it, filleted it, and shared it. Dan is buddy boating with his girlfriend, Nicole, who is also solo sailing her boat. They each have YouTube channels— Dan’s ,  Nicole’s —and we may be appearing in one or more episodes. George and I did watch some of the cutting of the fish but opted not to take any. We were concerned about ingesting ciguatera toxin which can be in some reef fish, particularly large ones. Although we were told this one would be safe we decided not to take the risk.  Dan holding his 112 lb Goliath Grouper while being filmed by his girlfriend, Nicole. They don’t go anywhere without their GoPro cameras....