Breeze On

It turns out that we didn’t have to move from Lower Channel Cay in the wee hours. The anchorage was quite calm while the wind was from the SW. It did shift to the W, then the NW, causing the anchorage to become a bit bouncy. It wasn’t so bad, though, to inspire us to move in the dark. We raised the anchor just after the sun came up and were treated to a gorgeous sunrise.  We are now securely anchored in Thompson Bay and may be here a while. The forecast calls for three fronts this week, each one causing the wind to clock around. We hope to have an opportunity to visit some of the other islands in the Bahamas once the weather settles down.  In the meantime we will enjoy our time here. This morning we visited the Farmers Market and this afternoon we enjoyed lunch with friends Dee, Ron, Jeannie, and Brad at Sou’ Side.  Sunrise at Lower Channel Cay. 

We raised the anchor just before dawn yesterday morning to begin our 50 nautical mile trip to Water Cay. Unlike our trip down to the Raggeds last week, this time we had just enough wind to keep the sails filled while we motor sailed. We opted to go in the deeper water on the east side of the island chain, saving a few miles. The wind was from the NW when we anchored on the west side of Water Cay yesterday afternoon, but we weren’t concerned about being on a lee shore since the wind was so light.  We left Water Cay this morning, once again just before dawn. Today we didn’t have enough wind to raise the sails at all. Two dolphins briefly joined us, close to the same spot we saw dolphins last week. Could they be the same two dolphins? When the wind and water are as calm as they were today it gives us an opportunity to see everything that is on the bottom as we motor by: including blades of grass, sponges, and large cushion sea stars. I find it mesmerizing.  Our current anchorage ...

Hog Cay in the Ragged Islands is one of the few anchorages where we are content to stay a week or two without getting itchy feet. There are so many activities we enjoy, especially socializing at the tiki hut in the late afternoon. We have been here a week and would be happy to stay another, but a front is coming and we have decided to leave tomorrow morning. Our plan is to take two days to travel 100 nautical miles to Thompson Bay, Long Island where we will wait out this front and possibly another.  This morning we hiked a new trail on the north end of the island with Jean and Michael. It is a beautiful trail that was cleared last year by 20 cruisers, some of whom had electric saws (much more effective than our rusty pruners.) They did a great job.  It was a small crowd for the Christmas potluck, but the company was good and the food was delicious.  View from today’s hike on the north end of Hog Cay.  Clouds as we were leaving tonight’s gathering at the tiki hut....

A lovely family from Portugal made this Christmas tree with wood found on the beach. They and other cruisers have decorated it and we think it adds quite a nice touch of Christmas spirit. This anchorage tends to draw a nice group of people who enjoy similar activities: hiking, beachcombing, snorkeling, fishing, and low-key socializing. It is part of the reason we love it here. 

Since we sold our house in Connecticut and moved into a condo in Maryland ten years ago, we haven’t missed yard work one little bit. This morning we took a hike to the other side of the island. On our way back George used our old—now rusty—clippers to trim some of the overgrowth on the trail.  The numerous hiking trails are among the many reasons we like it here. There is always something to do. In the past we have also enjoyed snorkeling here but this week has been usually chilly so we may not get in the water this time. One of our other favorite activities at Hog Cay in the Ragged Islands is the daily 4 pm gathering at the tiki hut. It is BYOB with no food involved. No muss, no fuss. We socialize for about an hour to an hour and a half, then everyone returns to their boat after the sun sets.  We received an update on the anchoring situation in George Town. It has been decided that no anchoring will be allowed within the Moriah Harbor Cay National Park boundaries. That is ver...

We left George Town yesterday morning and sailed overnight 18 hours, arriving at Hog Cay in the Ragged Islands at 3 am this morning. We had planned on 21 hours for the 100 mile trip, arriving at sunrise, but we moved much faster than expected. We normally spread this trip over two days but the north winds meant we wouldn’t have a protected anchorage along the way. Although we both slept a few hours on our off-watch, and another few hours after we arrived, we are still tired. We relaxed for most of the day and saved our limited energy for the afternoon gathering at the beach.  One highlight of our trip was a pair of dolphins who swam with us for a few minutes.  Sunset last night as we sailed to the Ragged Islands. 

Yesterday morning we left the anchorage at West Blue Hole—five miles south of Thompson Bay—and set sail for George Town. Our goal was to anchor in George Town for better protection from the forecast SW to W to NW winds. We timed our arrival in George Town for slack high tide to reduce the wind against current effects in the sometimes treacherous southern entrance into the harbor.  We had squalls during the entire six hour trip. Since we stow our enclosure while in the Bahamas, George and I got quite wet. Our fingers were downright pruney.  The entrance into the harbor went well. When we arrived at our planned destination, Master’s Harbour, we saw that there were mooring balls available in Red Shanks, right next door. We took the first one we came to and had a restful night on the mooring ball.  The mooring balls are new and quite controversial with the George Town cruisers. Although we rarely stay in George Town more than a week at a time, many cruisers stay here the enti...

The night before last George woke up in the middle of the night and checked the depth of the water where we were anchored. Thompson Bay is a wide, shallow bay and a strong easterly wind can blow water out of the bay. During one hurricane not too long ago, all of the water was blown out and the bay was dry. When George checked the depth he found there was less than a foot of water under our keel and low tide was still two hours away. He woke me up at 2:30 am and we moved the boat 1000 feet into deeper water (farther from shore.) Today we moved five miles south to an area we hope will provide better protection from the SE winds we are expecting overnight. Tomorrow we plan to sail about 35 miles to George Town for better protection from SW and W winds.  Atlantic Ocean at Salt Pond, Long Island, Bahamas.  I took these photos during our walk yesterday. There was no going ashore from our new location five miles to the south.  Salt Pond. If you look closely you can see foam buil...

We have been fortunate to be able to get off of the boat both yesterday and today, in spite of the wind. Yesterday we dinghied over to Basil’s dock—a dock owned by Basil Fox, who is nice enough to let cruisers use it—and walked with Dee and Ron to a new restaurant, Vantage Pointe. It is a cute place on the water with outdoor seating. They have a walkway to some concrete steps where you can tie up your dinghy. It may be a challenge to get close to the steps, though, at low tide. The traditional Bahamian food was very good and we will definitely be back.  Today we dinghied into the more protected cove and walked a mile to the grocery store. It is forecast to be even windier tomorrow. Nevertheless, we are hoping we can get to shore, if even for a brief walk.  Vantage Pointe Restaurant.  Friends Jeannie, Brad, and Holly were also there. All are former cruisers.  View of the walkway to the steps. Low tide! We were confused by this sign as we walked to the store today. The...

The weather forecast for the next week is—as our weather guy, Chris Parker, said—horrendous. A stalled frontal boundary leading to strong winds and squalls of up to 40 knots, a front bringing strong winds (including problematic W winds) and squalls, and yet another front a few days later in the middle of next week.  While we wait for better weather we are safely anchored in Thompson Bay, not a bad place to be at all. We can get off of the boat most days, visit with friends, go for walks, and eat at a few restaurants. When I look at it that way, I feel fortunate indeed in spite of the weather.  Screenshot from my Windy app showing the front which will be bringing west winds. It can be challenging to find protection from west winds in many parts of the Bahamas.  We are located in the center of the photo, just above where it says Clarence Town. 

Yesterday morning we dinghied ashore bright and early to visit the Farmers Market and were quite pleased with our purchases—eggs, kale, papaya, and eight passion fruits! I just love passion fruit and was delighted to be able to buy so many. In the afternoon we went ashore again for a short walk on the beach, knowing that we most likely wouldn’t be getting off the boat today. The wind has picked up and shifted more to the south making the harbor choppy. We have indeed stayed on the boat today and worked on our list of boat chores.  For dinner we had the last two portions of delicious fresh wahoo that Dee and Ron generously shared with us after catching it on their sail here.  Yum! Farmers Market. 

It has been breezy since we arrived at Thompson Bay but we are close enough to shore that the harbor is not too choppy when we dinghy to shore. The breeze also keeps the no-see-ums away and we seem to have eliminated the ones that were on the boat a few days ago.  Since we arrived we have bought fuel, bought fruits and vegetables at Hillside Supply, and gone on a few long walks with Dee and Ron. Today we had lunch at the Long Island Harbour Club (formerly Long Island Breeze.). The menu was quite limited—just a few sandwich options—but the food was good. I am hoping they expand the food options when more tourists and cruisers arrive and the business picks up.  Long Island Harbour Club. The casual dockside restaurant is on the first floor. A more formal restaurant is on the upper floor.  View of the harbor from Long Island Harbour Club. 

Our two-day 100 nautical mile trip from Black Point to Thompson Bay, Long Island was memorable for the squalls and no-see-ums. We left Black Point yesterday morning and motor-sailed in lighter than expected winds. We went through squalls off and on all day, finally anchoring behind Coakley Cay after traveling 50 nm. This was a new anchorage for us but one we thought would provide better protection from NW winds compared to our usual stop at Rocky Point. We pulled in close to shore, about 500 ft from land in order to get into calmer water.  Later in the evening, as we were watching TV on the iPad, we noticed the wind had dropped and we were getting bitten by no-see-ums. We quickly closed up the companionway screen but it was too late. The cabin was inundated. They were swarming everywhere. No-see-ums are a problem when the wind is light and you are close to shore. We had both conditions and had neglected to close the screens when we first arrived. We finally turned the v-berth fan o...

It has been relatively calm during our time at Black Point, allowing for some pretty sunsets and views of the bottom through ten feet of water. Of course, in these light winds we also have to keep the companionway screen closed to keep the no-see-ums and flies out of the cabin.  We are finally seeing other cruising boats in the anchorage. While I did a few loads of laundry this morning I had a chance to talk with a few other cruisers who were also doing their laundry. This afternoon we had a brief chat with our friends on Ursa Minor after they came into the anchorage.  The weather forecast for the next several days has changed so we have had to completely revamp our plans. Such is the cruising life.  Last night’s sunset, Black Rock Harbour.  The water was so calm and clear we could see each blade of grass. 

We left Sampson Cay yesterday morning and had a lovely sail to Black Point, after stopping briefly in Staniel Cay to shop. Our dinner of fish tacos at the High Tide Cafe was excellent. Lorraine and her daughters operate this new restaurant and Lorraine’s Cafe which has been a fixture in Black Point for years. The High Tide Cafe, which opened a year ago, has a lovely deck overlooking the water.  Here we are with Lorraine on the deck of her restaurant, High Tide Cafe.  High Tide Cafe.  We left our dinghy at the government dock and were greeted by a few nurse sharks hoping for some handouts. 

During our time anchored at Sampson Cay we have walked on the large sandbar at low tide, snorkeled at some surprisingly nice reefs, and eaten a lobster dinner at a neighbor’s boat. Our neighbor came by in his dinghy on his way to do some hunting (catch lobster with spearguns.) After a brief chat he carried on with his hunting at a nearby reef. A short time later he came back and showed us the HUGE lobster he had caught. It had been hiding in a hole and he had trouble wedging it out, even with two spears in the lobster.  He said it was way too much for him to eat and he invited us over for a lobster dinner. What a treat! He even sent us home with leftovers.  Yellow Stingray, missing its tail. They can change color dramatically.  Juvenile Gray Angelfish.  Large Sea Turtle hiding in hole.  Another Yellow Stingray.  Large Nurse Shark with two Remoras attached.  Another Sea Turtle.  Queen Angelfish.  A bright, light aqua colored coral that was nic...